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It’s Russia

Posted on September 10, 2010

ST. PETERSBURG – After another day of hiking up and down the stairs of the Faculty of Journalism, I asked Pavel, my university host, about students in wheelchairs.

He said he’s been at the Faculty for six years and he has never seen a student in a wheelchair. He also said as far as he knew, there was no accommodation for disabled students.

“Is that the right word?” Pavel asked.

I nodded. “It must be strange for you, coming from the U.S.”

Then he added: “It’s Russia.”

Stairwell inside Faculty of Journalism. #kvprussia on Twitpic

Either as an afterthought or as an official explanation, people use that phrase with me to sum up how things work in St. Petersburg. I wonder if it’s because of my inability to speak Russian. Or – if that phrase sums up decades of bureaucracy, tradition and the status quo that can’t be moved by a new generation of movers and shakers.

During class, I asked students about an elected student government body. They said there were talks about organizing one but it never happened.

“It’s Russia,” explained one student.

I decided to incorporate that phrase into my Twitter lesson. I created a Twitter hashtag for the class: #itsrussia. It’s not trending on the microblogging app. At least not yet.

After class, I enjoy dining out and sampling Russian food. Since many museums close by 5 p.m. or 6 p.m. – I am learning more about Russian culture through the cuisine.

I found Stolle located down the street from the Faculty. It’s a coffee house that specializes in fresh pirogis. I ordered two – one beef and one salmon. I also had some green tea. My dinner added up to 200 Roubles.
Beef and Salmon pirogis
The crust was flaky, light and paired nicely with my savory meat. The salmon had a creamy sauce that was soaked up by the crust.

I’m a big fan of pointing and using fake hand signals when it comes to ordering food in this town. At Stolle – the pirogis are laid out on the counter and it makes it very easy for me to explain exactly what I want on my plate.

Goulash with chanterelle mushrooms
I was happy to introduce Shuana, my translator, to the Goulash with chanterelle mushrooms at Na Zdrorovye. I couldn’t stop myself from spooning up the savory, meaty sauce over the ‘shrooms. I also added a dollop of sour cream to the mix.

Adorable Russian restuarant
There was live guitar music playing and little girls twirled around on the dining tables. I loved all the kitschy wall decorations inside Na Zdrorovye. My translator said this was a full Russian dining experience.

“Now I know where to take my foreign friends,” Shuana said.

Next week, I’m looking forward to another Russian tradition, the ballet. I just bought tickets to Spartacus at the Mariinsky Theatre.

Pavel was worried about me heading to the Theatre by myself. He had a entrance exam to study for and the other ladies in the office had other plans that night.

I assured everyone that I am quite capable of enjoying beautiful ballet dancing on my own.

I don’t think it’s necessarily the American thing to do. However, I would say dressing up for the theater and watching shows on my own is something I know how to do.

September 2010
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